Holiday in Bulgaria 1/6- Veliko Tarnovo

In early May, before there is a lot of work in the garden, it is a good time for a week’s escape, to Bulgaria with a friend. Decided to stay 3 nights in Veliko Tarnovo and 4 nights in Sofia.

Veliko Tarnovo was the capital of the 2nd Bulgarian empire since 11c. The typical building style at that time can be seen along the lower part of the slope next to the river. Basically stone built ground floor, for keeping animals, and a wooden second floor for living.

Took a taxi to nearby mountain to visit Transfiguration monastery, built in that era. Secluded environment surrounded by mountains on all sides. The main church is small with a dome and well painted, impressive for the visual impact. Renovation is slow and continuous, the nearby monks dwellings are in poor condition.

grilled tongue, fermented vine leaf roll, yogurt salad

lamb offal soup

Lunch at Arbanasi village restaurant Arbat, as it is a cold day, ordered a lamb soup, turned out to be delicious lamb offal soup with fermented grains. 

Then move to Albanasi village, to visit a well preserved wealthy merchant’s house, Konstantsalieva House, furnished in the grand Ottoman style. A series of rooms with wall to wall low raised platform covered with carpets, for sitting, eating and sleeping, with well decorated floors and ceilings.

Back to Veliko Tarnovo, wandering around the tiny old part, very relaxing place with not many tourists yet, but a lot of souvenir shops.

stewed pork in clay pot

grilled chicken liver, heart with cheese

yogurt cucumber salad

Dinner in a near by simple restaurant, Снак Бар - Актьорите, delicious clay pot stew pork and grilled chicken liver snd heart. Together with salad, bread, 2 glasses of red wine and water, Euro 30 for two persons, great value for money.

幾天前去愛爾蘭一個比較古雅的小鎮走走，在小餐廳吃早餐，有雙蛋、辣腸、乳酪和牛油多士，歐羅15.5， 咖啡另加，兩人早餐加稅歐羅47，我們覺得是物價飛漲？還是我們很少出外用餐？已經不知市價。

剛剛和朋友來到Bulgara 古城 Veliko Tarnovo，在附近餐廳吃晚飯，有乳酪香草青瓜沙律、瓦煲燜豬頸肉洋蔥草菇和香煎雞雜，加兩杯酒和兩支鑛泉水，味道上佳，共歐羅30。

物價相差好大，難怪近年吸引不少英國人到來退休。 

 住在小城Veliko Tarnovo ，是十一世紀時的首都，古城部份在河畔，依山坡而建，那時代的傳統設計，低層石牆，養生畜，上層是以木建築的居所，古樸美觀且耐看。

古區比較細小，只是山坡上的兩三條街，走在那裏，很感覺那古雅氣氛。可是四周全是近代的最簡單石屎房子，又不少失修破舊，起初在外圍行走，看到這些房屋，心中奇怪怎麼揀了這樣的地方住下。

天氣清冷，中午要了羊湯，原來是有麥粒的羊雜湯，有些少酸汁味，估計是當地人常用的發酵麥粒湯底，吃有發酵葡萄葉米卷配乳酪橄欖，和烤牛舌，美味可口又合心水，有四樣發酵食物，正是Dr Tim Spector的推介，傳統食物，真的健康！