Showing posts with label 2024-05 Krakow Poland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2024-05 Krakow Poland. Show all posts

2024年5月6日 盛衰起落





除了看電影 Schindler’s List 外,從來沒有看過波蘭的歷史,决定和朋友來 Krakow 旅行相聚數天, 特意看了書本,才知道波蘭在十九和二十世紀時的苦難,不光是猶太人,本土波蘭人也在俄羅斯和納粹德軍的管治下傷亡慘重。

最可怕是二戰時波蘭軍人與盟軍合力作戰,但在勝利後,國家沒有得到獨立,而是被送給俄羅斯,得再忍受五十多年共產政權後,才終於得到自由,難以置信的決定。

看完波蘭歷史,來到 Krakow , 參觀的宏偉建築物,堡壘、大教堂,全歐最大廣場等等,都是波蘭國力強盛和富裕的十六、七世紀的作品。

Krakow 位於南北、東西多個同樣強大國家的貿易路線中央,以出產琥珀而收入豐富。

終於在列強多年不停入侵後,因戰力沒能追上火炮威力而滅亡,國土被鄰近三國瓜分(Russia, Prussia, Austria) 而在歐洲地圖上消失百多年。

那時期,人民被長年勞役,如送去西百利亞工作,以1890 年的統計,那些年有近百五萬人離開,多以南北美為目的地。

然後兩個世界大戰,文字、圖片和電影的紀錄,令外人所知的,以猶太人的苦難為主,因為歷史,一直由往後較富裕的人民主動記下。

不得不佩服猶太人,經歷那麼多的殺害和刧掠,民族文化仍然可以持續,又在世界各地重新富裕起來,以財力和能力,留下民族歷史。

有感而發,因為同時期波蘭人的傷亡,遠較猶太人為多,但這個事實,外人知道的極少。

參加城市walking tour, 導賞人驕傲地指出,八十年代終於脫離蘇聯獨立後,國家一貧如洗,廿年前加入歐盟是個重要轉捩點,那時失業率高企,是歐盟的窮國,現在的經濟就,是首十名成員之一。

問他如何爬升得如此快,回應是人民勤力苦幹,到歐盟各國工作,賺錢後回國創業,包括設厰房為鄰國做加工製品。

愛爾蘭亦是在八十年代加入歐盟後,經濟才有起色,亦有大量在外國工作的人民,但民族品性不同,没有波蘭人的幹勁,和忠於國家的歸屬感。




waiting for sunset


Krakow, Poland 5/5 Food


Made an effort to try most of the local dishes, cuisine is not their selling point, but still interesting to know. My favourites are sour fermented rye soup, tripe soup, sausages and grilled smoked cheese.

Bigos, cabbage stew with meat in a bread bowl

cooked herrings in different marinate, lemon mustard, curry, beetroot, spicy

dumplings in beetroot soup

fried trout

confid lard with onion and pork

tasting of vodka, with herb, lemon honey, cherry and walnut

grilled smoked cheese with caramelised beetroot

brilled sausage with horseradish

Zapiekanka, various toppings on cheese toasted bread

cabbage meat roll

roast mutton

zurek, fermented rye soup with sausage

potato pancake with apple

Pierogies, dumplkings with various fillings

 

Krakow, Poland 4/5 Wieliczka Salt Mine

An easy 40 minute bus ride away is this underground treasure, in use over 700 years. Formed by an ancient dried up sea, very common in this part of Europe. 

 





A two hours guided journey in many levels all the way down to 135 m, in a few hundred steps. Amazing space, so well organised.


The structure is supported by wood, the rest is salt. We were told to ‘lick’ as much as we like, wall, ceiling, floor, steps …. Except sculptures !

 







There are many sculptures done by miners, but I like most the sculptures that are like paintings, with great perspective. 

 


 




Krakow, Poland 3/5 Works of art



Other than the major sites, Krakow is easy to wander around, with church, monasteries and grand buildings dotted around.

What I am most amazed is the quality of works displayed here, that caught my eye, the perspective used was fascinating to admire.

St Francis Church, the most beautiful stainglass I have ever seen, very fluid and real



St Francis Church, beautiful painted wall decoration


St Florian's Church, wonderful metal works


St Joseph Church, the detail in a small piece of works

 
Fantasstic tapestry work at Wawel castle, so much fine details, an atmosphere like Chinese ink paintings




 

 

Krakow, Poland 2/5 The suffering period



The fall of the Polish empire was due to attack from all directions, the Swedish, Turks, Russian and Prussian and Austrian.

The 19 and 20 Centuries were the worst period with Russian forcing Polish to work in Siberia, leading to mass emigration before the WW1, of 1.5 million people mostly to America.


Then the Nazi regime that decimated both the Jewish and Polish communities, in equal numbers, eventhough we only hear about the Jewish side of the history.
History is, most of the time, written by the side that is rich and successful, later on.

Visited the site where part of the movie Schindler’s List was taken, and also Schindler’s enamel factory, turned into a museum of Polish history history. It covered a lot, takes a long time to go through and too much to absorb. I would rather have the focus only on the that period and the events that happened in the factory.

 

coffee spot in the Kazimierz area

Empty chairs displayt in the previous Jewish ghetto

A scene in the movie Schindler's list

old market area in Kazimierz

A modern bridge built to cross river to the old Schildler's factory area


Krakow, Poland 1/5 The powerful and rich period

Market Square








I watched Schindler’s List, and that is more or less the little I know about Poland, an eastern European ‘poor’ country.

For this week long holiday in Krakow, I read the history of Poland, and surprised to learn how powerful and rich it was in the 16 and 17 Century, because of being in the center of the trade route north south and east west, of amber in particular.

Wawel Castle and Cathedral






All the grand old buildings, around Market Square, Wawel Castle, Kazimierz Jewish area, were built in that period.

Visiting the Wawel Castle museum is a good way to appreciate the good old days the country had enjoyed.

Kazimierz Jewish area




Expertly Curated Etnographic Museum, a lot of instruments and decoration used in the old days, wonderful craftmanship. 

pounding grain

Crow trap

bee hive

block printing on cloth

ceiling decoration before the use of  Chrismas tree